Month: May 2015

Talking about careless and….. well backing up way to far!  LOL 🙂  This was really close…. but yeah I had plenty of room!  🙂

Anyway…. this chop saw seemed very reasonable so…. well I purchased it.  (Amazon also had a $20 off coupon on all Dewalt stuff…. you can click the link.)  It was a DEWALT D28710 14-Inch Abrasive Chop Saw.  I do wish they had some sort of stand for a Bosch 9″ Angle Grinder…. but all I found was this…. a grinder stand…. but is looks dangerous and got bad reviews.  LOL  🙂

Today after almost running over my chop saw…. I cut a bunch of all-threads.  They were 3/8″ x 11″…. Apparently their are lots of techniques on cutting all-thread.  (BTW some industry forums have really nice people.)  I read a couple forum replies which was really referencing to smaller all-thread…. which I believe now may be able to use a different technique?  Larger all-thread I believe requires a different technique…. I know now.  🙂

-The best way was to unscrew a bolt after you cut the all-thread.  Which really does not help when you have 6′ pieces!  LOL  🙂  But I understand the theory.  Even 3′ with a little nut it a pain.
*The problem was the cuts or mangled threads still were to strong to allow a nut to get off the thread.

-Grinding also did not help…. it was very hard to get the line straight.  The cut has to be straight to get the bolt on.
*I was actually using a grinder then used my impact wrench with a deep socket to “get” a nut on. But this technique was very time consuming.

-On the forum they suggested using a Variable Speed Bench Grinder.
*I used my angle grinder and it just seemed to constantly mess up threads?  Maybe a bench grinder is better?

-My revised best technique! Use a chop saw…. then a tap and die set to fix the problems.
*When using the chop saw…. it would cut the all-thread straight and if you go slow it would not cause any issues. But really who waits around? 🙂 I had to fix a couple per 6′ length. I also just used the tap or die in my hand…. so no big deal.

Let me know how you get this done…. I believe this process/technique varies with the size of all-thread.  So this may not work with smaller…. but larger would probably be fine?

IDX coin vault with an IDX accumulating timer model # AT411E-L-X and an X-Mark Model 10 Multi-coin and encoded token acceptor.

I am not sure who makes this meter box…. or how old meter boxes were designed.  But it is interesting the bolt for the IDX AT411E-L-X timer goes all the way through the front plate? Usually it is welded on the front plate just like the screws for the X-Mark Model 10 Multi-coin acceptor. This was probably added later by the purchaser? Also I like the bar on the front (for just a push button) but why is the shroud not protecting the whole lock?  But it really does not matter…. the front bar is just sitting on top of the meter box? Plus the wrasp lock has play (If you want to be able to lock it)…. so what good it the security bar? I know…. a Police Officer told me the answer to this question…. “to keep the honest people out”.    🙂 Then with the security bar off… I would not bother installing the other lock. LOL 🙂    BTW….  The guy want $600 for his…. which is used.  The timer cost $76, a DX MA-800 Coin Acceptor cost $152 and a New JE Adams which is a nicer meter box cost $263 with locks.  JE Adams has a mount in the rear of the box for a timer.  Also has screw lock style for the safe which is desirable.  I would personally have a digital timer?  Call me…. not old school on this one.  🙂

Where to fix your washed out Cat pump head:

• DynaJet– permanent repair with a pressed in sleeve
• Kleen-Rite – permanent repair with a pressed in sleeve  $150
• Vilco Supply in Tennessee – o-ring under the insert to make seal…. apparently it that washes out it is not repairable  $200
• IDX Innovative Design & Sourcing, LLC Cat 3535

 

 

LOCTITE® THREADLOCKER BLUE 242® under the seal and the retainer to fill the void instead of fixing the head?

I am pretty sure this is the correct version harness and the pin-outs!  LOL  🙂  Check first! This harness I am using on a Hamilton ACW5 credit card computer.

5 and 8 power serial side –> opposed sides 1 and 6 on rj12 side

48-3112 HARNESS, GL-ACW HANDHELD PRT $ 33.22
48-2111A CABLE, AUDITPRO HANDHELD $ 42.13
48-3150 HARNESS,TICKET MUX TO HANDHELD $ 33.26

100-0136 COMPLETE HANDHELD KIT $ 437.00

I forgot how to figure out which timer is which.  🙂  Plus having a part number of 13-1165 and 05-0031 help somehow?
Kleen-Rite says “05-0031” means: Hamilton Changer Part 05-0031 – DTI OEM Controller Assembly $624.81

Apparently…. GinSan makes their own…. something? Maybe GinSan makes everything…. IDK? I would think their website would be better? LOL 🙂 They use hand tools, also power tools, CNC, bend stuff…. plus other tools to mark things? Cut stuff and shape stuff and join stuff and weld stuff (tig)! 🙂 They also use 304 and 201 stainless steel!

I really do not like this companies website (top 5 I believe) and I also do not like this companies representative that supports their products on a forum (he might not do it anymore?). The help he lacks he makes up with…. anyway. 🙂 Just my opinion. I also dislike most other companies…. everyone seems to give terrible support in this industry. I also would like to find my own information and not call anyone…. Is this really hard? 🙂

Also since GinSan seems to not have an email address on their site I should include this one for your resume: [email protected] (But they have 2 phone numbers…. which proves my point.)