Actually this is probably your PROBLEM! 🙂 I actually do not know which company to be angry at the most. Jim Coleman which pushes all the blame on B&C or B&C which is like calling my Mother for helpful advice…. JK or am I? LOL 🙂 (B&C might be helpful on other topics?)
But someone from B&C emailed me a couple months ago about my CC POST LINK. I did not get a manual like I wanted but she did give me a little information. Also pretty helpful….
“B&C is the manufacture for Coleman Timers (-1034R, 1034S, 1032S, 1034T (cash timer for SATB Server) & PBC Boards (vacuum, vending, BAY & fragrance). All of our products are repairable with an average cost of $100.00 per item. We also manufacture the TimeMaster (Hi-Performance Wash Systems – TM5J) and Istobal USA (formally Magic Wand – TM6)
You can also buy spares direct from B&C. New SATB Timers are $785.40/each, they are very expensive and this is why it is always good to have them repaired first.
We are also the manufacture of the SATB Server.”
Also this is a good deal when sending in your SATB timers…. just forget your “remote display”. I am not sure what this is because I never got a manual. LOL 🙂 But knowing it cost $100 to get repaired it sure seems like a good deal? They also claim it is “new”…. but it might be “new to you” or “used”? Either way $129 is not that bad…. if anyone has an image of how to set this crap up or a manual let me know!
Also – when sending in SATB timers, please make sure to include the remote display as the timer has to be tested with it. If the timer arrives without, we will add a new remote display ($129.00) and ship out as a complete unit.
The reason behind this = when juggling timers and remote displays, it very easy to plug in a known good timer and blow up the remote display and vise-versa.”
Unfortunately I have a SATB Server. 🙂
My unit is a Model 75700
Custom Manufactured for Jim Coleman “Made in USA”
Jim Coleman Water Wizard 1.0
Jim Coleman Water Wizard 2.0
The Jim Coleman Water Wizard 1.0 uses 3 tri-foam pvc sticks….
The Jim Coleman Water Wizard 2.0 uses 1 tri-foam pvc stick….
Greg had to explain to me how the WW2 produced tri-foam because I was not thinking at all! But it make common sense…. The tri-foam on the WW2 works just like…. wait for it…. rotation TRI-FOAM! LOL 🙂
So which Tri-Foam does a better job? The WW1 or the WW2 Tri-Foam? Well people can argue about anything…. But I am pretty sure very few people (besides Jim Coleman employees) can disagree that the WW2 Tri-Foam is worse for the customers. The WW2 uses the rotating chemical obviously as a space saving solution…. But there appears to be plenty of room? So I assume it is because of labor cost…. Because everyone knows the WW2 is cheaper than the WW1! What…. The WW2 cost more? Oh…. Oh Okay.
These are actually really great cheap vinyl gloves…. Usually vinyl gloves are pure crap. (BTW I was trying to purchase XL gloves. I also purchase some black latex gloves…. But they have gotten worse I believe?) LINK
There are 2 things I dislike about Amazon.com…. How the prices fluctuates and how you can not just shop with Amazon easily. (You actually can but it is a pain.)
If you would like to use a Dixmor LED 7 timer “counting up”. You will need a Dixmor Led 7 with firmware version v7.36 (Don’t worry…. Cryptopay does not have it in their documentation. I had to call Dixmor. :)) Dixmor said you can upgrade any LED 7 timer to the new version firmware 7.36. They said the prices range from $25-40. Where my v7.04 would be $40 and my v7.33 would be $25 (guess). This is one reason I believe Dixmor is a great company to deal with. Even though they never seem to update their website.
But I believe Cryptopay’s website is outdated also and it is new…. At least Dixmor’s website was nice in 2003! 🙂 (But what do I know? I was probably studying interface design and web development in college in 2003! LOL)
Well…. this is the fuses I use in my Jim Coleman Super Saver. 🙂 I guess I would have to read to figure out if this is the original/correct amps.
This is a 5 x 20mm fast-acting glass tube fuse. The GMA Series.
I actually hate these fuses and I wish Coleman used a more standard fuse you could purchase at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot or ever auto part stores. It is almost like they want you to purchase the fuses from them? LOL 🙂
I actually believe it was…. Home Depot who had them last time I needed one. But…. they only had 2-4. One time I had to rewire to another inline fuse. When you have a short it usually takes more then one fuse to find the problem! LOL 🙂
LM234H (I believe?) DOCTI LINK Temperature Sensor with Analog Current Source Output in TO-92 Update: 20151001 I am revising this to LM134H
Resistor…. 271 Ohms 2% The last color is not really that important. But the 3rd band might be Red? I would need to check again. 🙂 Update: 20151001 I believe it is red, brown, brown.
Now I love Dixmor…. better then all other Car Wash companies combined. But their “Original” Sensor seems flawed? I just happened to find 3-4 broken sensors today and I have been meaning to check them out. Lets check out the pictures below.
So my hypothesis is…. In the “Original” design the temp sensor is exposed to the elements (The cap portion). Moisture has to rust and corrode this part (mine has rust on it) and pretty much all the solder joints of the board (mine are all corroded it seems). Even though the rest of the sensor is encapsulated with epoxy or something annoying? I believe…. that the temperature sensor should be encapsulated also…. then maybe the sensor would be a better design? As designed I believe this is terrible to be honest…. It “seems” like I am purchasing one every other year. But I know that has to be an exaggeration! LOL 🙂 Update: 20151001 I do have 2 washes and I am in the south.