Archive | May, 2015

Jim Coleman Swipe & Clean 1032S Timer…. YES a 1032S not 1034S

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I have 2 and yes I will sell them.  🙂  You either know exactly what is going on here…. or you are saying what on Earth is this pos timer.  LOL  🙂  There is a very small niche market for this time I believe?  I know of only 2 Jim Coleman setups where this timer works?  I have a hint on one situation below.  Do you know both setups?  I bet you do not.  🙂  It is like a challenge!  I also bet there is not a Dixmor replacement for this timer?  I actually have never seen one of these timers until I got it around February this year.  But I never saw them at shows or at any car wash.  Mainly because Coleman does not bring the equipment these timers are installed in to shows.  🙂

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Video timer demo:


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UPDATE 20160202: SOLD…. my friend purchased both. Good deal also. 🙂

Did you know that a chop saw would fit under my car? LOL :)

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Talking about careless and….. well backing up way to far!  LOL 🙂  This was really close…. but yeah I had plenty of room!  🙂

Anyway…. this chop saw seemed very reasonable so…. well I purchased it.  (Amazon also had a $20 off coupon on all Dewalt stuff…. you can click the link.)  It was a DEWALT D28710 14-Inch Abrasive Chop Saw.  I do wish they had some sort of stand for a Bosch 9″ Angle Grinder…. but all I found was this…. a grinder stand…. but is looks dangerous and got bad reviews.  LOL  🙂

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Today after almost running over my chop saw…. I cut a bunch of all-threads.  They were 3/8″ x 11″…. Apparently their are lots of techniques on cutting all-thread.  (BTW some industry forums have really nice people.)  I read a couple forum replies which was really referencing to smaller all-thread…. which I believe now may be able to use a different technique?  Larger all-thread I believe requires a different technique…. I know now.  🙂

-The best way was to unscrew a bolt after you cut the all-thread.  Which really does not help when you have 6′ pieces!  LOL  🙂  But I understand the theory.  Even 3′ with a little nut it a pain.
*The problem was the cuts or mangled threads still were to strong to allow a nut to get off the thread.

-Grinding also did not help…. it was very hard to get the line straight.  The cut has to be straight to get the bolt on.
*I was actually using a grinder then used my impact wrench with a deep socket to “get” a nut on. But this technique was very time consuming.

-On the forum they suggested using a Variable Speed Bench Grinder.
*I used my angle grinder and it just seemed to constantly mess up threads?  Maybe a bench grinder is better?

-My revised best technique! Use a chop saw…. then a tap and die set to fix the problems.
*When using the chop saw…. it would cut the all-thread straight and if you go slow it would not cause any issues. But really who waits around? 🙂 I had to fix a couple per 6′ length. I also just used the tap or die in my hand…. so no big deal.

Let me know how you get this done…. I believe this process/technique varies with the size of all-thread.  So this may not work with smaller…. but larger would probably be fine?

IDX Coin Vault with Meter box, X-Mark Model 10 Multi-coin acceptor and IDX AT411E-L-X timer

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IDX coin vault with an IDX accumulating timer model # AT411E-L-X and an X-Mark Model 10 Multi-coin and encoded token acceptor.

I am not sure who makes this meter box…. or how old meter boxes were designed.  But it is interesting the bolt for the IDX AT411E-L-X timer goes all the way through the front plate? Usually it is welded on the front plate just like the screws for the X-Mark Model 10 Multi-coin acceptor. This was probably added later by the purchaser? Also I like the bar on the front (for just a push button) but why is the shroud not protecting the whole lock?  But it really does not matter…. the front bar is just sitting on top of the meter box? Plus the wrasp lock has play (If you want to be able to lock it)…. so what good it the security bar? I know…. a Police Officer told me the answer to this question…. “to keep the honest people out”.    🙂 Then with the security bar off… I would not bother installing the other lock. LOL 🙂    BTW….  The guy want $600 for his…. which is used.  The timer cost $76, a DX MA-800 Coin Acceptor cost $152 and a New JE Adams which is a nicer meter box cost $263 with locks.  JE Adams has a mount in the rear of the box for a timer.  Also has screw lock style for the safe which is desirable.  I would personally have a digital timer?  Call me…. not old school on this one.  🙂

CAR WASH IDX BT800A TIMERS

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For people that are interested…. these are IDX BIG Time timers in action! IDX is still competing in the crappy website contest. They are in the top 5 for sure…. Plus “UNDER CONSTRUCTION” on the IDX website pretty much means “it will never happen”. 🙂 Well I have waited 10 years. LOL 🙂

The IDX BT800 BT800A timers are not supported by IDX anymore and IDX will not repair the timers for you.  But if they did repair them…. it would cost to much anyway!  JK  🙂  I am pretty sure these timers were not made in China also…. because the quality of Chinese items are 100x better.  JK…. well sure!  🙂  The BT900 (which is what I thought I was purchasing at the time) are built 10x better.  But my main problem with the BT800 is it just seems for a timer at that price they should have redone the circuit board instead of using jumpers across the board?  But the reason might have been because they sold multiple versions and used the same board then had to jump things?

UPDATE 2015.05.30: I sold all four of these timers. I really did like these timers. But to be honest…. I purchased them and just never installed credit cards and well…. these timers. LOL 🙂 My other problem was the plastic housing…. I personally felt the housing needed to be metal. But the guy I purchased the timers from said he used them with plastic housings? So I guess plastic is fine? 🙂

The reason the purchaser said he had to purchase this timer BT800 over the BT900 was because the BT800 had the capabilities of displaying the message upside down!  No I do not know how to achieve this.  Weird that they removed this function though?

Washed out Cat pump heads

Where to fix your washed out Cat pump head:

 

 

LOCTITE® THREADLOCKER BLUE 242® under the seal and the retainer to fill the void instead of fixing the head?

48-3112 Hamilton Handheld Cable

I am pretty sure this is the correct version harness and the pin-outs!  LOL  🙂  Check first! This harness I am using on a Hamilton ACW5 credit card computer.

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5 and 8 power serial side –> opposed sides 1 and 6 on rj12 side

48-3112 HARNESS, GL-ACW HANDHELD PRT $ 33.22
48-2111A CABLE, AUDITPRO HANDHELD $ 42.13
48-3150 HARNESS,TICKET MUX TO HANDHELD $ 33.26

100-0136 COMPLETE HANDHELD KIT $ 437.00

I honestly did not think GinSan made their own stuff. You learn stuff every day! :)

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Apparently…. GinSan makes their own…. something? Maybe GinSan makes everything…. IDK? I would think their website would be better? LOL 🙂 They use hand tools, also power tools, CNC, bend stuff…. plus other tools to mark things? Cut stuff and shape stuff and join stuff and weld stuff (tig)! 🙂 They also use 304 and 201 stainless steel!

I really do not like this companies website (top 5 I believe) and I also do not like this companies representative that supports their products on a forum (he might not do it anymore?). The help he lacks he makes up with…. anyway. 🙂 Just my opinion. I also dislike most other companies…. everyone seems to give terrible support in this industry. I also would like to find my own information and not call anyone…. Is this really hard? 🙂

Also since GinSan seems to not have an email address on their site I should include this one for your resume: pschuyler@ginsan.com (But they have 2 phone numbers…. which proves my point.)