Cryptopay and Dixmor Timers Information



If you would like to use a Dixmor LED 7 timer “counting up”. You will need a Dixmor Led 7 with firmware version v7.36  (Don’t worry…. Cryptopay does not have it in their documentation. I had to call Dixmor.  :))  Dixmor said you can upgrade any LED 7 timer to the new version firmware 7.36.  They said the prices range from $25-40.  Where my v7.04 would be $40 and my v7.33 would be $25 (guess).  This is one reason I believe Dixmor is the best car wash company in the industry.  Even though they never seem to update their website.

But I believe Cryptopay’s website is outdated also and it is new….  I would be embarrassed if it was mine.  At least Dixmor’s website was nice in 2003!   :)  (But what do I know?  I was probably studying interface design and web development in college in 2003!  LOL)

15% off a pretty interesting carwash product? :)

This would probably have worked great when I mixed my chemicals from powder?  (The chemical and powder seemed to separate.)  Would also be nice if they sold something like this but for a drum stand?  (When water gets under the drum it can get nasty.)  The description says it is for 5 gallon buckets…. But I would think it would work for 15 gallon also?

The product is really for bucket washers…. So do your part and purchase one so they will be sold out!  LOL :)  It is actually a grit gaurd…. Good for expresses and tunnels with prep stations.

I might just purchase one to help the economy?  LOL :)  Seems like I might need one?  Plus it is only $6.83! (You have to change it to Amazon as the seller BTW.)

JKO Mat Cleaner BB-4


I ended up selling this unit…. but the J-KO Mat Cleaner is really pretty nice.  All stainless steel.

Only difference between the BB-4 and the BB-X is the GinSan GS-11 timer (standard vacuum timer – non-accumulating) and the front buttons. Well also the case has some places for locks and there is a shield for the mat return.  But you could compare the pictures I have.  I guess there are a couple differences?  :)

The BB-X is preprogrammed to automatically turn off after 2 minutes. The BB-4 has an on off switch.

Arimitsu Plunger Pumps- Inflation is a….. well supply and demand probably!

This has become the dumbest argument I have ever heard.  Sure stuff produced in Japan is great!  Japan is NOT china!

My point…. this argument is as dumb as comparing Canon and Nikon dslr cameras…. even though technically Nikon is better for still pictures!  LOL :)  Apparently, Canon is better for video?  But purchasing a dslr for video is like purchasing an apple iphone as a smart phone.  It just makes no logical since…. why not purchase a professional Canon video camera which is designed to record video?  (Plus why support China and Apple?  Also their product is not good.)

So my point…. I remember going to car wash trade shows and seeing the Arimitsu booths…. long long ago.  :)  They have a line of pumps…. but none of them actually compare directly to the main self serve 310 Cat Pump.  Which actually might be their strategy at making you purchase their more expensive Arimitsu 516 pump?  But after anyone compares and contrasts the differences between the Cat pumps and the Arimitsu pumps.  The comparison comes down to this:  (All prices quoted from KR which is where I would purchase it from.)

Arimitsu 313 4 GPM 1200 PSI $535.80 Seal kit:  $91.50
Arimitsu 516 5 GPM 2500 PSI $705.00 Seal kit:  $94.55
Arimitsu 516 With Rails $756.70 Seal kit:  $94.55
Cat 310 4 GPM 2200 PSI $635.99 Seal kit:  $77.72
Cat 530 5 GPM 2500 PSI $993.70 Seal kit:  $78.30
Cat 5CP2120W 4 GPM 2500 PSI $565.00 Seal kit:  $81.78
Arimitsu 516 In 2007 $484.44 Increase:  $220.56 8 years
Arimitsu 516 In 2009 $531.10 Increase:  $173.90 6 years
Cat 310 In 2009 $610 Increase:  $24.99 6 years

So the question no one can answer…. Why pick Arimitsu 313 over a Cat 310…. When you are going to run your pump at > 1200 psi and around 3-4 gpm?  Also the Arimitsu 313 is cheaper and is quoted as a replacement for the Cat 310 but…. It would be a terrible replacement.  Would you really purchase a pump that maxes out at 1200 psi if you run your pump at 1200 psi or higher?  That is why everyone eventually determines you need the 516.  Thus…. the Arimitsu cost more and the seal kit also cost more.  Okay…. Soooo why are the Arimitsu pumps better then Cat again?  Besides maybe being quieter then the Cat 310?

Now in 2007…. when the Arimitsu pumps WERE CHEAPER then the Cat pumps.  (I could only find a price I wrote down from 2009 for the 310 Cat pump but that was their marketing…. also that their seal kits were cheaper.)  I do understand why people will replace a pump because they have a 30 year old Cat pump and they want to replace it with the same Cat pump.  I totally understand that.  Now…. replacing a 30 year old Cat pump that caused no trouble with a pump you never heard of that cost the same or more?  It is like shopping for a 65k Mercedes then purchasing a 70k Hyundai…. sure they cost about the same and drive the same.  But you should probably purchase a Honda…. what were we talking about?  LOL  :)  This seems like just replacing a manufacturer for fun…. unless you replaced all your pumps.  If you do not replace all your pumps…. now you will have to maintain 2 brands of pumps.  WOW that makes it a worse idea!

Now I know since all car wash owners are cheap…. someone out there purchased a Giant high pressure pump.  I like them they are RED!  I am not kidding…. I am more interested how long a Giant pump or some other cheap pump will last then some expensive Cat or Arimitsu pump.  Who cares if your Cat or Arimitsu pump is maintenance free since 2007!  LOL :)  Impressed I am not.

Also another thing about Arimitsu…. apparently you can call them and they try and cut out the middle man (everyone that purchased an Arimitsu seems to mention this).  So it might be cheaper from “Greg”.  Which is usually a really bad business strategy…. Fragramatics anyone?  :)  But I also hate when companies make you go through distributors (which in theory SHOULD be better)…. like Unitec.  So maybe you can not win with me?  :)

Jim Coleman Super Saver fuse: GMA 5a 125v ?

Well…. this is the fuses I use in my Jim Coleman Super Saver. :) I guess I would have to read to figure out if this is the original/correct amps.

This is a 5 x 20mm fast-acting glass tube fuse. The GMA Series.

I actually hate these fuses and I wish Coleman used a more standard fuse you could purchase at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot or ever auto part stores. It is almost like they want you to purchase the fuses from them? LOL :)

I actually believe it was…. Home Depot who had them last time I needed one. But…. they only had 2-4. One time I had to rewire to another inline fuse. When you have a short it usually takes more then one fuse to find the problem! LOL :)

Used Car Wash Equipment for Sale

Yes…. I have used carwash equipment for sale…. But I do sell my equipment for a reasonable rate…. I would expect to pay.  If I needed the item…. I try and treat others how I would have wanted to be treated purchasing items. :) Not scrap price and not price either…. so my prices are actually reasonable if you need the equipment.  LOL :)  My equipment link is here Stuff to Purchase.  But this list is not complete and I have a ton of other stuff.  I also have some sources for other equipment. 

I am all the time purchasing used car wash equipment at the right price.  So yes I will purchase your old car wash equipment for the right price.  Anything at the right price…. Oh and I have purchased some stupid stuff.  :)  Then I will be stuck with it for 5-10 year trying to sell it!  LOL :)

UPDATE: What is a….. *ORIGINAL* Replacement Sensor for Dixmor Weep Mizer (TI0100) $40.00


I am done dissecting these…. I will also revise my precious post/comments.  I believe they use hot glue.  Which is apparently a thing people do?  Also people claim freezing hot glue helps it separate?  Which it did not…. so it might be something else?  Also the leads and solder joints might just not be cleaned?  (“No clean” solder flux residue) Corroded leads look different…. but I am not sure how corroded leads look under hot glue?  The matter what…. every time I need a sensor I try all my extras.  Which never work.

I do know something…. Gin-San uses epoxy or some resin…. for some reason?  Probably just to be…….. well it does not make their timer last longer.  At least that is what I have seen and heard.  Plus by their price of the timer and lack of features on some…. it adds money to the bottom line.  In my opinion.  :)  Like the GinSan GS-31 (Which I have 5-6 for sale if you want some! :) ) why does it cost $400 new…. when you need another $100 timer?

What is a….. *ORIGINAL* Replacement Sensor for Dixmor Weep Mizer (TI0100) $40.00


  • 67WR20  Trimmer Resistors – Through Hole 3/8″ Squ 20 10%  DOC 3/8” Square Multiturn Cermet Trimming Potentiometer
  • LM234H (I believe?)  DOC TI LINK Temperature Sensor with Analog Current Source Output in TO-92    Update:  20151001  I am revising this to LM134H
  • Resistor…. 271 Ohms 2%  The last color is not really that important.  But the 3rd band might be Red?  I would need to check again.  :)  Update:  20151001 I believe it is red, brown, brown.

Now I love Dixmor…. better then all other Car Wash companies combined. But their “Original” Sensor seems flawed?  I just happened to find 3-4 broken sensors today and I have been meaning to check them out.  Lets check out the pictures below.

So my hypothesis is…. In the “Original” design the temp sensor is exposed to the elements (The cap portion).  Moisture has to rust and corrode this part (mine has rust on it) and pretty much all the solder joints of the board (mine are all corroded it seems).  Even though the rest of the sensor is encapsulated with epoxy or something annoying?  I believe…. that the temperature sensor should be encapsulated also…. then maybe the sensor would be a better design?  As designed I believe this is terrible to be honest…. It “seems” like I am purchasing one every other year.  But I know that has to be an exaggeration!  LOL :)  Update:  20151001  I do have 2 washes and I am in the south.

Direct LOL…. Mark VII :)


“Direct drives run smoother and quieter than belts and pulleys while eliminating the maintenance headache of having to regularly adjust them.”

This is funny….  this is implying less maintenance.

But belt driven systems last longer in a high usage application.  The belt system produces less vibration and heat because the direct systems run at a higher rpm.

Also…. are you really suppose to adjust your belts and pulleys “regularly”…. like within the last 10-20 years of the equipment’s life?  LOL :)  I honestly do not know!  :)  Plus what does “regularly adjust them” mean?  every 20-30 years?  Again I do not know?  Thanks let me know cwguy!  :)

One last thought…. doesn’t the sound come from the hp pump not the motor?  Or is it the belt making all the noise?  Plus I would think a motor running at higher rpms would be louder?  But I do not know!

Dixmor LED 7 Car Wash Timer and Magswitch Keychain Magnet to reset the timer.


I have been wanting to purchase a key chain magnet for my timers. So I could reset them…. it has only taken 12 years. LOL :)

This magnet can hold 2 sets of keys on my door and you can turn the magnet off (I assume). I also assume it makes it safer? I did not ask my mother in law (I do not want to either :) )…. she hates magnets. Not sure if she bases her fear off anything…. she is a Doctor though?

Link to the magnet: Magswitch Keychain Magnet