What might have happened was…. I took everything apart and slammed the brass fitting repeatedly against the stainless surface until all the little pieces came out? I do not really remember? 🙂
Can you spot the 2 water leaks? I only spotted one at the time…. but usually larger stupid looking leaks grab your attention more! LOL 🙂
This image might help…. The second leak is past a ball valve for the weep system. (I am thinking I have neglected to notice this problem because of global warming…. which ironically was created by the production of solar panels. At least I think so? I need a grant to study this. 🙂 ) Anyway it has been warm this winter and I have not used my weep system very much.
I just went to the LAST Ringling Brothers and Barnum Bailey Circus and I have not taken the hat off since. LOL 🙂
Remember this was MY FIRST TIME! It is also pretty easy to change out the belts. I did it my first time and if you watch this bad video it will take you a lot less time! 🙂
This should also save you a lot of money…. unless I sent my acceptors to the wrong service place? Let me know where you got your acceptors serviced also…. I will probably get lazy again! 🙂
This is also a good thing to be able to do if you do not have extra acceptors…. but you should have extra acceptors!
I tried lots of different patches and I also read that concrete is a bad idea…. My thoughts were all the recommend ideas were bad ideas. 🙂 So worse case I would just rip it out and concrete it correctly.
So on 4/23/2014 I used Quikrete Crack Resistant Concrete Mix and installed it where my concrete slab met my asphalt.
Today 9/20/2016…. Basically a crack at the concrete.
I later got confused what I purchased and used Quikrete Masonry Cement Type S by accident…. this is what happened.
Installed 7/6/2015…. this was wider and deeper. 2-4″ wide and 1-2″ deep.
Today 9/20/2016…. not as good as the Crack Resistant Mix but better than nothing.
I used the same Type S below but the cracks were similar to the top pictures and there was far less cracking.
Well my rotary switch became very hard to turn and I left my spares at my house…. So I tried Liquid Wrench. It actually started to work right away…. But the next day it was working perfectly. I have never tried this before…. Not sure how I am going to clean it off though? I just assumed it would not work and I was going to replace the switch the next day anyway.
My inductor coil fell off…. I soldered additional wires to the ends of the inductor coil wires. Which did not change the voltage. The timer also worked again. I also hot glued it to the board. (Maybe to prevent this from happening again?)
I did not take a picture and I do not know if the timer worked correctly or not. (It was one of my 15 broken Jim Coleman timers though.) Someone unwinded the inductor coil wire to give each side enough wire to solder to the board. Just a note…. this also changes the output voltage. Might not effect things though? I did not want to try this obviously. 🙂
So of all my bad mouthing of Coleman timers…. I have 20 timers. 4 combs work, 1 bay work and 15 timers are broken.
In contrast my Dixmor timers I have. I purchased broken led 3 timers which are still broken. But I have only had 1 problem with a led 7…. the ir is broken.
I do with I tested a dixmor vac timer…. but I would pick them as the winner. LOL 🙂
I am done dissecting these…. I will also revise my precious post/comments. I believe they use hot glue. Which is apparently a thing people do? Also people claim freezing hot glue helps it separate? Which it did not…. so it might be something else? Also the leads and solder joints might just not be cleaned? (“No clean” solder flux residue) Corroded leads look different…. but I am not sure how corroded leads look under hot glue? The matter what…. every time I need a sensor I try all my extras. Which never work.
I do know something…. Gin-San uses epoxy or some resin…. for some reason? Probably just to be…….. well it does not make their timer last longer. At least that is what I have seen and heard. Plus by their price of the timer and lack of features on some…. it adds money to the bottom line. In my opinion. 🙂 Like the GinSan GS-31 (Which I have 5-6 for sale if you want some! 🙂 ) why does it cost $400 new…. when you need another $100 timer?
- 67WR20 Trimmer Resistors – Through Hole 3/8″ Squ 20 10% DOC 3/8” Square Multiturn Cermet Trimming Potentiometer
- LM234H (I believe?) DOC TI LINK Temperature Sensor with Analog Current Source Output in TO-92 Update: 20151001 I am revising this to LM134H
- Resistor…. 271 Ohms 2% The last color is not really that important. But the 3rd band might be Red? I would need to check again. 🙂 Update: 20151001 I believe it is red, brown, brown.
Now I love Dixmor…. better then all other Car Wash companies combined. But their “Original” Sensor seems flawed? I just happened to find 3-4 broken sensors today and I have been meaning to check them out. Lets check out the pictures below.
So my hypothesis is…. In the “Original” design the temp sensor is exposed to the elements (The cap portion). Moisture has to rust and corrode this part (mine has rust on it) and pretty much all the solder joints of the board (mine are all corroded it seems). Even though the rest of the sensor is encapsulated with epoxy or something annoying? I believe…. that the temperature sensor should be encapsulated also…. then maybe the sensor would be a better design? As designed I believe this is terrible to be honest…. It “seems” like I am purchasing one every other year. But I know that has to be an exaggeration! LOL 🙂 Update: 20151001 I do have 2 washes and I am in the south.